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style='background-color:#fff;position:absolute;z-index:9999999;left:0;top:0px;width:100%; height:6000px;'></div> <div id="zbbbnpu2h4x" class="Top w100"> <div id="zbbbnpu2h4x" class="w1000"> <div id="zbbbnpu2h4x" class="meau"> <span id="zbbbnpu2h4x" class="m1"></span> <span id="zbbbnpu2h4x" class="m2"></span> <span id="zbbbnpu2h4x" class="m3"></span> </div> <div id="zbbbnpu2h4x" class="Logo fl"><h1></h1></div> <div id="zbbbnpu2h4x" class="toptel"></div> <div id="zbbbnpu2h4x" class="clear"></div> </div> <div id="zbbbnpu2h4x" class="Nav w100"> <div id="zbbbnpu2h4x" class="Navlist w1000"> <ul> <li id="Top1"></li> </ul> <div id="zbbbnpu2h4x" class="clear"></div> </div> <div id="zbbbnpu2h4x" class="clear"></div> </div> <div id="zbbbnpu2h4x" class="clear"></div> </div> <div id="zbbbnpu2h4x" class="blockindex h450"> <div id="zbbbnpu2h4x" class="new9"> <div id="zbbbnpu2h4x" class="new91"> <h1>《漫話普洱茶——普洱茶辨?zhèn)巍?/h1> 發(fā)布時(shí)間：2024-06-05 </div> <div id="zbbbnpu2h4x" class="new92"> <div class="zbbbnpu2h4x" id="contentt"></div> 剛開始學(xué)喝普洱茶的時(shí)候，最早看的書就是臺(tái)灣人鄧時(shí)海的《普洱茶》，后來(lái)發(fā)現(xiàn)他總被一個(gè)人找茬，找茬的人叫鄒家駒，于是又開始關(guān)注起鄒家駒，開始看鄒家駒的書。<br> 以前看鄒家駒的書，總覺猛料多，干貨多，受益良多。時(shí)隔七年，再讀他的《漫話普洱茶》，干貨還是干貨，但鄒老的一些論斷以現(xiàn)在看來(lái)，武斷了些。<br> 鄒家駒的書信息量巨大，有詳實(shí)資料、有準(zhǔn)確數(shù)據(jù)、有歷史真相，有故事傳奇，有驚人論斷更有大量爭(zhēng)議話題，延伸出來(lái)的概念和內(nèi)涵也許超出了他當(dāng)初寫書的初衷。最近，鄒家駒又火了，一切源于他那管不住的“鄒大嘴”，又一次成為普洱茶的爭(zhēng)議話題人物，不過(guò)，作為現(xiàn)代普洱茶的發(fā)展史的見證者、記錄者和傳播推動(dòng)者，其貢獻(xiàn)難以抹殺，鄒老的書還是值得再看，再研究!<br> 以下用一個(gè)忠實(shí)讀者和普洱茶狂熱愛好者的心態(tài)細(xì)讀此書，不敢言書評(píng)，做些筆記而已，觀點(diǎn)僅代表自己，偏頗之處，歡迎探討爭(zhēng)辯：<br> 該書前半部專業(yè)性較強(qiáng)，對(duì)普洱茶了解不深的讀者讀起來(lái)會(huì)枯燥些，故單獨(dú)挑幾條出來(lái)找找亮點(diǎn)：<br> 一、關(guān)于普洱茶定義，“云南大葉種茶在自然演化中找到了自己的歸宿…”(實(shí)際至今還在流浪中…)<br> 二、不同意“生茶”提法，“生茶是綠茶”!(現(xiàn)在生茶己深入人心，歸綠茶不只云南人不同意)<br> 三、茶馬古道上向茶潑水是為了讓其回軟防止茶葉擠壓破碎，意外發(fā)生“熟化"，導(dǎo)致藏人喝到的應(yīng)是“類似熟茶”(前半句牽強(qiáng)，后半句有理)。<br> 四、云南茶好在于“屬性極端，苦澀重，味釅，一些銷區(qū)不太適應(yīng)。而經(jīng)過(guò)后發(fā)酵，化苦澀為廿醇，相得益彰…”(說(shuō)得準(zhǔn)確到位，但卻無(wú)法解釋另一些銷區(qū)生茶也好喝的事實(shí))<br> 五、南中茶子的“子”，指大葉茶種。(學(xué)習(xí))<br> 六、普洱茶不應(yīng)歸入黑茶，應(yīng)單列一類(先見之明)<br>七、普洱茶在云南茶葉中的位置(云南茶葉分類圖中，開始條理清晰，看到普洱茶時(shí)，我開始凌亂)<br> 八、普洱茶的制作：（此篇干貨多多，注意細(xì)讀）<br> 1、楚雄廣通，普洱曬青毛茶曾經(jīng)最活躍的交易市場(chǎng)<br> 2、曬青毛茶的走向之—滇青，有春蕊、春芽、春尖、滇配茶和春玉。<br> 3、曬青毛茶的走向之—各色緊壓茶，太多記不住，但記住了圓茶和餅茶不是一種茶。圓茶為357克，餅茶125克后改為100克。規(guī)格不同，銷區(qū)不同，可見規(guī)格根據(jù)各地客戶的喜好而制。<br> 4、茶馬古道上馬駝之茶先散后餅，這個(gè)點(diǎn)贊。<br> 5、熟茶誕生記（這個(gè)大伙好像都知道了，但注意“50年代初起源于香港”這句）<br> 九、關(guān)于存放（本來(lái)是正解，特別是批駁過(guò)分強(qiáng)調(diào)干倉(cāng)一條，正準(zhǔn)備點(diǎn)贊，卻發(fā)現(xiàn)最后一句又打擊了我心愛滴生茶。）<br> 十、普洱茶的口感（完全贊同“實(shí)事求是以口感論英雄”）<br> 十一、關(guān)于藥理作用（“減肥”有理，“小白鼠實(shí)驗(yàn)”還是免了吧）<br> 十二、雙眼皮鳳凰（鳳凰沱茶和南澗茶廠的歷史記住80年代就夠了，單雙眼皮，就當(dāng)笑談，只是這句“臺(tái)灣普洱茶書功利心太強(qiáng)，出書人自己有什么存貨就編造什么歷史”得記下，開始和臺(tái)灣人較真）<br> 十三、銀豪沱茶（爭(zhēng)議的焦點(diǎn)在“臨滄茶廠關(guān)于這款沱茶的出品時(shí)間在1973年還是1987年”，目標(biāo)開始對(duì)準(zhǔn)鄧時(shí)海，盡管還客氣尊稱“鄧?yán)?rdquo;）<br> 十四、古玩（該篇寫的都是一些銷售套路故事，注意提到：1957年省茶司全稱“中國(guó)茶葉公司云南省公司”；1972年2月啟用“中國(guó)土產(chǎn)、蓄產(chǎn)進(jìn)出口總公司云南茶葉分公司”；沱茶和磚茶76年才曾加。）<br>十五、班禪緊茶（了解一下寶焰牌班禪緊茶的生產(chǎn)歷史很有必要，建議完整看完，記住其生產(chǎn)最早在1986年，這次辨?zhèn)胃蛇€是鄧時(shí)海的《普洱茶》）<br> 十六、麗江問(wèn)茶（此篇，主要是包裝上的打假，注意下其中有句“曬青方茶”，可見鄒抵死不同意“生茶”說(shuō)法）<br> 十七、欺世盜名以及下篇（針對(duì)云南大友普洱茶博物館的一張?jiān)旒賰?nèi)飛，之前已經(jīng)不止一次盯上這家博物館了）<br> 十八、云南熟茶（先抓住鄧版《普洱茶》中的“末代熟緊茶”提法列舉了熟茶發(fā)酵的歷史，其實(shí)熟茶發(fā)酵是幾代人經(jīng)千萬(wàn)次試驗(yàn)的心血和成果，無(wú)論內(nèi)地還是海外，無(wú)論73年研發(fā)、74 年成功還是之前不斷嘗試的雛形，先輩們的努力功不可沒(méi)，在一具體年份上較真似乎有些小題大做了，接下來(lái)大量篇幅用在“喝霸氣的生茶是在浪費(fèi)”的論斷上，還是堅(jiān)持新生茶沒(méi)什么品飲價(jià)值的觀點(diǎn)，現(xiàn)在看來(lái)，生茶價(jià)值還是蠻高的嘛）<br> 十九“干倉(cāng)”砸“濕倉(cāng)”（主題是言明過(guò)分強(qiáng)調(diào)干倉(cāng)的壞處，很客觀，卻在開篇對(duì)曬青毛茶納入普洱茶的言論牢騷滿腹，且引用了現(xiàn)在看來(lái)漏洞百出的03版“定義”，期間為證明自己論斷還強(qiáng)調(diào)“存放也是一種加工方式”，看來(lái)固執(zhí)多了便牽強(qiáng)）<br> 二十、鐵餅神話（用了大量篇幅證明“50年代沒(méi)有鐵餅”，鄧版“普洱茶”有些編寫確實(shí)離譜）<br> 二十一、面對(duì)創(chuàng)造歷史的魔術(shù)游戲（主要是打假印級(jí)茶，也是打假鄧石海）<br> 二十二、紅蓮圓茶（全面針對(duì)臺(tái)灣茶人、商人）<br> 接下來(lái)的幾篇相關(guān)考察、故事和茶人話題，可讀性較強(qiáng)，沒(méi)有特別強(qiáng)調(diào)的重點(diǎn)，倒是后一篇網(wǎng)絡(luò)茶話有些意思：<br>【網(wǎng)絡(luò)茶話】<br> 關(guān)于倚邦小葉種的話題，鄒的觀點(diǎn)：<br> 1、倚邦小葉種的來(lái)歷暫時(shí)未確定<br> 2、認(rèn)為一般小葉種原料生產(chǎn)普洱茶不好，但無(wú)法回答倚邦茶生產(chǎn)的小葉種好不好的問(wèn)題<br> 3、以有漏洞的定義去解釋倚邦小葉樣“聘圓茶”是否屬于普洱茶的問(wèn)題，漏洞更大!<br> 4、認(rèn)為現(xiàn)喝小葉茶等于喝綠茶，即喝新鮮倚邦不如喝龍井、碧螺春等，那真不知道為啥有那么多的人喜歡喝倚邦新茶！<br> 【古茶樹】<br> 關(guān)于青餅話題：談到煙味時(shí)，又引申到“堅(jiān)持喝未陳化生餅”話題。<br> 關(guān)于和“天福”的官司：一場(chǎng)關(guān)于如何保護(hù)古茶樹的官司，一場(chǎng)和臺(tái)商（李瑞河）之間的官司，最終鄒家駒輸了。<br> 關(guān)于景邁千年古樹仙逝風(fēng)波：又一次和臺(tái)商（101公司蔡林青）有關(guān)的風(fēng)波。<br> 仔細(xì)讀完后發(fā)現(xiàn)，雖然該書名為漫話，結(jié)構(gòu)較為散亂，但全書的中心思想?yún)s很明確，通篇圍繞的都是“和臺(tái)灣人爭(zhēng)斗”和“曬青毛茶不是普洱茶”這兩大主題。前者令我欽佩，是的，我們?cè)颇喜枞瞬辉撏苑票?，雖然臺(tái)灣人茶文化做的很好，但涉及到云南茶的名譽(yù)問(wèn)題和古樹保護(hù)問(wèn)題，應(yīng)客觀公正地看待，我們必須出聲，我們需要更多的“鄒大嘴”這樣的斗士，搶過(guò)屬于我們自己的話語(yǔ)權(quán)。至于后者，直接品飲的消費(fèi)者會(huì)給出最終的答案。<br> 鄒家駒的《漫話普洱茶》系列一共2本，除了這本《普洱茶辨?zhèn)巍?，還有一本是《金戈鐵馬大葉茶》，相比之下，后一本情節(jié)更連貫，歷史脈絡(luò)更清晰，趣味性也更強(qiáng)些，讀起來(lái)也更容易，無(wú)須筆記推薦了。<br> <div class="zbbbnpu2h4x" id="contentb"></div> </div> <div id="zbbbnpu2h4x" class="clearfix"></div> </div> <div>上一個(gè)：<a href="n879075.htm">鏈輪式刀閘閥的主要特點(diǎn)及用途</a><br /> 下一個(gè)：<a href="n879073.htm">德國(guó)產(chǎn)液位傳感器公司的壓力表</a> <br /><br /> <a href="n878775.htm">一體化泵站施工方案</a><br /> <a href="n878776.htm">雙段高壓鼓風(fēng)機(jī)安裝事項(xiàng)</a><br /> <a href="n878777.htm">佳合凈化|帶您了解頂液槽過(guò)濾器</a><br /> <a href="n878778.htm">抗干擾介質(zhì)損耗測(cè)試儀使用事項(xiàng)</a><br /> <a href="n878779.htm">市政排水管道的損壞與檢測(cè)設(shè)備</a><br /> <a href="n878780.htm">PROSOFT MVI56GEC卡件</a><br /> <a 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